Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
